Norge på Langs, Norway, Trails


When I retreated to my own bed for the final time on the evening of the 8th of October I had an odd feeling about it. I've always thought that the strangest moment of any expedition is the final night you sleep in your own bed, in the knowledge that when you put down your… Continue reading Nordkapp

Great Himalaya Trail, Trails

Shadows of the Himalaya

Nearly seven months ago I left Kathmandu on a panoramic flight over the himals of Nepal, beautifully outlined against a clear winter sky. I looked out the window, recognizing many of the major landmarks I had come to describe as the ‘white giants’. I remember feeling emotional at the sight of them, just as though… Continue reading Shadows of the Himalaya

Great Himalaya Trail, Trails

GHT Fun Facts

Taplejung - Simikot 127 days Trail slogan: "And we climb, and we climb, and we climb." Distance covered: 1263 km Average km/day: 13,5 km Total vertical gain/loss: 123930 m Ascent: 63640m Descent: 60290 m Average vertical gain&loss/day: 1318 m Number of times we climbed Everest from sea level: 14 Number of walking days: 94 Number… Continue reading GHT Fun Facts

Great Himalaya Trail, Trails

The battle for the finish: Gamgadhi – Simikot

On the morning we started heading for the finish line, we woke to find the mountains covered in a fresh blanket of snow. There was a sweet smell to the air: in Gamgadhi it had only rained, and the air was clean now. It smelled of crispy mornings and fresh water. It was nice to… Continue reading The battle for the finish: Gamgadhi – Simikot

Great Himalaya Trail, Trails

Rara Lake

Staying put in Jumla for two days was much needed. We were utterly destroyed when we hobbled in there, the beds brought some comfort on our sore bodies. The only thing really missing was heating: the dining room became nice and warm when the stove was lit, but the bedrooms remained cold. Power was down… Continue reading Rara Lake

Great Himalaya Trail, Trails

Lost in the West, part I: Dhaulagiri and Dhorpatan

For the start of round 3 we chose a rarely used track south of the mountain Dhaulagiri, straight through the Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve. We would head west from Beni until the town of Dhorpatan and then go straight north over a couple of passes to Dunai in the Dolpo area. The hunting reserve and its… Continue reading Lost in the West, part I: Dhaulagiri and Dhorpatan

Great Himalaya Trail, Trails

Annapurna Dreams

Everyone had left by the time we awoke in Dharapani in the morning: BJ, the guys, even our four-footed friend had disappeared. Suddenly I felt utterly alone, alone and tired at the end of the world. I realised I was tired of being alone, tired of being cold, tired of being sick, tired even of… Continue reading Annapurna Dreams

Great Himalaya Trail, Trails

Manaslu Circuit

Even though we lost a day looking for phantom trails out of the Ruby Valley, we still arrived a day early to Machhakhola. Manaslu is a restricted area: it requires a special permit and a guide for company. I was quite grateful for a day of rest in the wait: the past 7 days alone… Continue reading Manaslu Circuit

Great Himalaya Trail, Trails

The Ruby Valley

Of the Ruby Valley track I had no knowledge, and no expectations. It was just a link between Langtang and Manaslu, a walk that needed to be walked to stitch the regions together. It soon became clear that there is much more to the Ruby Valley than that. Again we were taken by surprise as… Continue reading The Ruby Valley

Great Himalaya Trail, Trails

The Sacred Lake: Langtang National Park

Back in the Rolwaling we already decided not to cross Tilman's Pass, the last truly technical stretch on the high route. The Iron Lady in Thame told us that no one goes there and true enough, we found no information whatsoever on this pass. Here and there we caught that the ice on top of… Continue reading The Sacred Lake: Langtang National Park