Reisadalen and a stormy crossing into Finland

The thermometer showed -16°C when we left the hotel in Kautokeino at 10 in the morning. The temperature we were actually feeling was -23°C. It was a crisp, clear morning, everything sparkled in the sunlight. Every twig, every blade of grass, every needle on every pine tree was frozen and covered with a thick layer … Continue reading Reisadalen and a stormy crossing into Finland

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To Olderfjord

While setting up camp on the south side of Nordkapstunnelen we noticed that the weather forecast had changed. Initially we had a 10 day good weather window reported, but all of the sudden a storm was bound to blow in during the night. At around 2 A.M. the winds picked up. Our tent, pitched on … Continue reading To Olderfjord

The battle for the finish: Gamgadhi – Simikot

On the morning we started heading for the finish line, we woke to find the mountains covered in a fresh blanket of snow. There was a sweet smell to the air: in Gamgadhi it had only rained, and the air was clean now. It smelled of crispy mornings and fresh water. It was nice to … Continue reading The battle for the finish: Gamgadhi – Simikot

Rara Lake

Staying put in Jumla for two days was much needed. We were utterly destroyed when we hobbled in there, the beds brought some comfort on our sore bodies. The only thing really missing was heating: the dining room became nice and warm when the stove was lit, but the bedrooms remained cold. Power was down … Continue reading Rara Lake

Lost in the West, part I: Dhaulagiri and Dhorpatan

For the start of round 3 we chose a rarely used track south of the mountain Dhaulagiri, straight through the Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve. We would head west from Beni until the town of Dhorpatan and then go straight north over a couple of passes to Dunai in the Dolpo area. The hunting reserve and its … Continue reading Lost in the West, part I: Dhaulagiri and Dhorpatan

Manaslu Circuit

Even though we lost a day looking for phantom trails out of the Ruby Valley, we still arrived a day early to Machhakhola. Manaslu is a restricted area: it requires a special permit and a guide for company. I was quite grateful for a day of rest in the wait: the past 7 days alone … Continue reading Manaslu Circuit

Now that we’ve come to think about it, they did have a lot of sh*tty weather in The Lord of the Rings too!

Much more than a physical struggle this trail is becoming a mind game, challenging our mental fitness beyond our physical capabilities. After walking for such a sustained period of time you are so fit that you will keep walking without problems as long as your head wants you to. The biggest challenge is to keep … Continue reading Now that we’ve come to think about it, they did have a lot of sh*tty weather in The Lord of the Rings too!

Winter Finally Arrived: Guiding in Extreme Temperatures

About one week ago temperatures started falling drastically, first from between -5°C and -10°C to -20°C, afterwards further down to -30°C and below. All activities are continuing just as before, so there is suddenly much more to think about and to care about on every trip. Once under -25°C and especially under -30°C the risk … Continue reading Winter Finally Arrived: Guiding in Extreme Temperatures