The Setting Sun

I forgot to check up when the polar night starts! I remembered it shortly after we left Abisko and we're making our way through the national park towards the lake, Abiskojaure. It could not be long now. The sun rose at 10.22 and set at 12.48. Six days? Maybe seven? In any case we would … Continue reading The Setting Sun

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Øvre Dividalen

Grey days came. Grey days went. Kilpisjärvi was a quiet place in late autumn, seemingly existing only of empty hotels, dark cabins, a sports shop (surprisingly) and a supermarket. Only on Saturday night there were people to be found, when all the Norwegians crossed the border to get their parties going on slightly cheaper beer … Continue reading Øvre Dividalen

Reisadalen and a stormy crossing into Finland

The thermometer showed -16°C when we left the hotel in Kautokeino at 10 in the morning. The temperature we were actually feeling was -23°C. It was a crisp, clear morning, everything sparkled in the sunlight. Every twig, every blade of grass, every needle on every pine tree was frozen and covered with a thick layer … Continue reading Reisadalen and a stormy crossing into Finland

Finnmarksvidda

The crossing of Finnmarksvidda had made me nervous all along. While going over the maps during preparations it was always there: a huge empty spot on the map, barren, exposed, prone to very sudden changes in weather, only few cabins and they are far in between. Our encounter with the Germans in Honningsvåg did not … Continue reading Finnmarksvidda

To Olderfjord

While setting up camp on the south side of Nordkapstunnelen we noticed that the weather forecast had changed. Initially we had a 10 day good weather window reported, but all of the sudden a storm was bound to blow in during the night. At around 2 A.M. the winds picked up. Our tent, pitched on … Continue reading To Olderfjord

Nordkapp

When I retreated to my own bed for the final time on the evening of the 8th of October I had an odd feeling about it. I've always thought that the strangest moment of any expedition is the final night you sleep in your own bed, in the knowledge that when you put down your … Continue reading Nordkapp

Out in the woods (Norge på langs) Planning & Logistics

 1. Season It is most common to start walking the length of Norway in spring or summer, though winter crossings have been made before. We plan to start in the second week of October. We don’t expect snow from the start though we estimate that we will need to change to a winter kit after … Continue reading Out in the woods (Norge på langs) Planning & Logistics

Out in the Woods – Norge på Langs

“Norge på langs”, or walking the length of Norway, is a classic among the European long distance trails. The route runs from Nordkapp to Lindesnes and is approximately 2500km long. The most common season to thru-hike the country is summer, though several winter traverses have already been made. Crossing the country during those cold and dark … Continue reading Out in the Woods – Norge på Langs

The road through Norway, part IV: Svalbard

Being the last outpost before the North Pole, the backcountry of Svalbard is one that truly deserves to be called wilderness. On these desolate islands approximately 2500 people share the land with more than 3000 polar bears. The geography is striking: pointy mountains rising out of the sea, broad valleys crosscut by glacial rivers, ridgelines … Continue reading The road through Norway, part IV: Svalbard

Has anyone noticed the women out there?

2600 kilometres into my Te Araroa hike I arrived in Queenstown. From there, my companions and I decided to detour from the trail and include the famous Routeburn Track. At the Routeburn Flats shelter we encountered a young German, who with many gestures was explaining an admiring girl that he had walked up to Mount Luxmore, a … Continue reading Has anyone noticed the women out there?